Big Brother's Little Brother

Second cities are curious things, they tend not to have the hustle and bustle of the country's first city. The do no not have the brash amitious fine young things constantly trying to impress you, nor the people who have really made it (or already had it) flaunting themselves. They do have fewer fine monuments and are generally overlooked in the next "showcase" spending round. They dont have the glamour, or the pretty things chasing the brash fine things. They do have a charm all of their own, the people are self assured, they are cultured but without the arrogance that comes with it. They are comfortable in their own skins. They appreciate they wealth of their surroundings more and use it to satifying effect. I've always had the most fun in these places. Small enough to be friendly, big enough to have everything. Manchester and Chicago being two great examples. Noone thinks of either when then they think of the UK or USA but they have been the major breeding ground for their respective cultures.

So too with Melbourne, nothing to really see, when you've see one new highrise city youve seen them all. Nothing to really take pictures of. Few will think of Federation Square when think of Australia It's the people that are amazing. Its full of little cafe's and bistros, a place filled with foodies and boho types not out of place in Camden. Its populated by the fiercly proud, my cousin already has a voilent reaction when Sydney is mentioned. If only she was so passionate about the weather. My brief visit was curtailed by how cold and rainy it was so no visits to the local beach for me just lots of trips to beautiful independent restaurants, bakeries and coffee houses especially on Brunswick Street. the centre has great independent food shops, boutiques and lovely alleyways with public graffiti and cafes. It was wonderful seeing old friends here, Prashant is now a father to a 3 month boy and Uttara my proud Melbournite cousin is moving back to India to live in Pune. All in brief but excellent trip
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The onwards to Sydney; the Big Brother and home to about a quarter of all Australians. A land of high rises, tall office blocks and nature at your doorstep. the botanic gardens in the centre of the city have bats living in the trees. There are small bays all around an secluded beaches. Inland less than an hour away are the Blue Mountains. My first day was a walk though the Botanic Gardens then a hike round the bay's coast to the Harbour bridge. The Sydney bridge climb takes you to the top of the structure letting you see the views at sunset (though of course you have to pay for the photographs). The second day started late with a ferry ride to Manly beach, Here I was reminded never to judge people. There was an elderly lady virtually giving a tour as we sailed, saying she used to own half the coast, hmmm grandiose ideas? Nope, her gradfather really did own half the coast and she really was someone now running a refugee charity and an active politician. At least thats what her business cards said!

Well Manly is like Bondi but nicer! Very much a second beach, the whole area is at the opening of Sydney Bay where there is a 10k hike round the coast from the beach to The Spit, here you can walk through almost untamed bushland, subtropical fauna, beautiful secluded beaches, even the occasional foot long lizard doesn't waver your hand from wanting to sign those immigration documents. A missed ferry was more than made up for by catching the sunset ferry back to Circular Quay. Wonderful deep orange silhouetting the city.

It was also my first and last half day of being a vegetarian, what began as a day going to the local markets and eating a "sugar banana", locally grown produce then on ferry I was told about the Noodle Festival in Hyde Park. Well so much for good intentions . Massive crouds eating drinking, dragon dancing drum rolling, and the huge amounts of food. Squid, octopus, prawn, Dim Sum, Indian, noodles, I went to bed a happy man!

Tomorrow begins the 14 day tour of the East Coast.